Trembling Thukla to the Summit and back again
Monday November 3rd thru Thursday November 6th
Dingboche gave us a special send-off with the stunning morning sunlight bouncing off all the surrounding mountains. Nupsi was especially alive, with high winds blowing snow in a constant stream that seemed like it was breathing in the dawn’s glow. We had an easy trek for the overnight stopover in the settlement of Thukla. We were greeted by quite the scene. For a moment, I thought we had been transported to Vail, Colorado, for afternoon cocktails on the deck during a beautiful, sunny spring day of skiing. There were people everywhere, basking in the sun, enjoying a snack, and rehydrating. The yaks arriving with our gear and porters carrying large loads of supplies towering above their heads quickly brought me back to reality!
Thukla, which is considered more of a transit point than a village, is typically a quick stopover for trekkers working their way to Everest Base Camp or participating in the “Three Passes” excursion through the Khumbu region. At just above 15,000 feet in elevation, it is a great place to acclimate with spectacular views.
So why do I call it Trembling Thulka? The 2:40 a.m. wake-up call of the entire building shaking earns that title! I found out the next day that the earthquake was actually nearby in Tibet and measured 4.5 on the scale.
Tuesday morning, we were off to the Lobuche High Camp, where we would have the afternoon and evening to rest before a 12 a.m. wake-up call to head out for our first summit of this expedition. It was such a beautiful day and very warm! We had to layer down as the sun pounded us while we worked our way up to the 17,224-foot camp. After a delicious pasta lunch, we had a quick rope skills refresher session followed by rest, rest, and more rest to prepare for the big night ahead.
In the early hours of Wednesday, Nov. 5, under a glowing full moon, we departed base camp for the Lobuche East summit sitting at 20,080 feet. Starting at 1:40 a.m., armed with three hours of sleep (the excitement always gets me!) and a full belly, I was ready to roll. I set my pace, matched my breathing, and started repeating my favorite mantra that always puts me in the zone: “I am whole and perfect, strong and powerful, loving and compassionate, harmonious and happy.”
The weather could not have been any better—zero wind, crisp and cold, which helped to thermoregulate against the major exertion of climbing the steep pitches. The fixed lines were in perfect condition, and my ascender glided along with ease. My pace was slightly slower than some in our group. We have amazing Ironman and ultramarathon athletes in this group that I am just in awe of. Luckily, I could stick to my own pace with the number of dedicated and highly trained Sherpa helping to lead the way. Gelja Sherpa and I had a blast getting pictures that I will cherish—the full moon setting, the sun rising and bouncing off surrounding mountains—just breathtaking. As if the elevation wasn’t breathtaking enough.
Next thing I knew, it was 7:15 a.m., and we were at the top! I had my eye on Lobuche West and thought we had farther to go. It was a reverse false summit! We had the summit to ourselves—snacking, rehydrating, doing the Summit Dance, and Gelja Sherpa recording a video tour of all the amazing peaks visible from our perch. It took us no time at all to descend, some sections going straight down with a safety attached to the fixed lines, while other sections were steep enough to require a figure-eight descender to cruise down backward.
We all gathered at High Camp to pack up our gear, eat some more, and start the trek back down to Thukla for one last night, earthquake-free this time. Our next move will be a relocation back to Pangboche via the Pherishe route. We will spend one night there before heading up to the much-awaited Ama Dablam Base Camp to start the process all over again.
And, as always, the dance will continue from higher ground!
